Categories
Running Trail Running

Isle of Harris – The Resurrection Run


Distance : 9.1 Miles / 14.65 Kms

Terrain : Trail = 6.05 Miles / 9.74 Kms ; Tarmac = 3.05 Miles / 4.91 Kms

Ascent : 939 ft / 286 m

Difficulty : Challenging

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/59121216



I was lucky enough to be staying only 2 minutes from the start of my run on South Harris and it was a mild sunny evening as I trotted down the road with Tilly at my side.  We would be leaving this wonderful island the next morning and I was determined to squeeze in a trail run in this rugged wilderness.  I have a niggling hamstring problem at the moment, so I would be taking it very steady, but I was desperate to be out.

My route would take me from the East Coast to the West, via the Coffin Road.  From the West coast I would return via the island’s old roads, before touching new roads towards the finish.  To reflect the vaguely “grave to cradle” character of the route, I chose to name it “The Resurrection Run”.  The name doesn’t quite follow the “Benjamin Button” theme, but hey, you get the picture and it has a nice ring to it!

I won’t revisit all of the island’s background and history here, as it has been lightly touched upon in my previous Isle of Harris cycling blog posts, so, if you haven’t already, please give them a read.  If the read doesn’t quite capture it, the photos show just how stunning this landscape is.

Setting off from the road junction to Lackalee, just East of Aird Mhige (Ardvay), a finger post directs you towards Seilebost, your target on the West coast.  A strip of tarmac road with a central grassy runner gives the impression that it’s metalled surface will lead you smoothly all the way to your destination.  The initial steep rise, however, merely disguises the fact that the tarmac disappears 100 metres beyond at a sheep fank (a set of stone walled pens used for sorting sheep).  Does this mean a female sheep in a pen is a “Fank Ewe”? (Sorry!!)

Passing through a gate to the side of the fank, I was pleased to see that the path is well trodden and easy to follow.  It was reassuring that the navigation should be easy, but I still needed to concentrate on my footing amongst the rocks, and I was well aware that this wasn’t going to be a flat run.  At the next signpost I joined the Hebridean Way, headed West towards a White house standing on the shore at Ceann a Bhaigh.  

To my right, everywhere, from my feet to the blue sky, was rock and heather.  No fields bring uniformity to this barren landscape, and the few small trees lie along the edges of lochs and smothering their tiny islands.  The only constant here is the heather covered peat, softening the jagged outline of ancient rock, as far as the eye can see.  It is little wonder Stanley Kubrick used tinted shots of parts of this landscape as the surface of Jupiter in his classic film “2001: A Space Odyssey”.

I dropped down to the White house, crossing a stream, before joining the Coffin Road travelling North-West.  The rough rocky landscape of the East coast provided no suitable sites for cemeteries, and no road was available through the bays region, so the local population of old would have to transport their coffins to suitable level ground on the West of the island, for burial.  They did this via the Coffin Road, a narrow rocky track which led over these hills for several miles.  

Having read literature about the Coffin Road, I had been warned that it would be very boggy and unclear in places, however, as I ascended towards Bealach Eorabhat, I was pleased to note that the path had obviously been upgraded.  Although the ground had been dry lately, I imagine that the current gravel surface should hold up quite well under inclement conditions.  Many channels have been cut into the path to allow water to continue on it’s journey without drenching the feet of passing runners, walkers, or coffin bearers.  The penance for dry feet is to take repeated small leaps across these channels as you make your way up the hillside.

As I approached the top of the bealach, the path ran below the towering crags of Creag an Eoin, meaning “Rock of the Bird”.  Golden eagles nest in these cliffs.  Flights must have been cancelled when I passed, but you may be lucky enough to see one of these amazing raptors soaring overhead. 

The path was now wide and easy as I ran down towards Seilebost, with views opening up towards the golden shores and blue seas of Traigh Losgaintir (Luskentyre beach).  I was getting thirsty now under the hot sun, and I wished I hadn’t worn a thermal.  When will I ever dress properly for the occasion!?  The lochs and shores teased at my need for liquid but I wasn’t going to keel over, so I pressed on.  Next time I’ll take my hydration pack and carry the thermal instead. 

The dry track ran down to Loch Carran where it met the old road to Tarbert.  It felt nice to run on the smooth surface of the old road for a while.  Although broken in places due to the tests of time and weather, the old road carries you along swiftly, covering ground in a fraction of the time it would take should you veer from it’s decisive path.

I was heading North now, and directly towards Beinn Losgaintir, with Beinn Dhubh sitting on it’s shoulder, the latter being the highest point on South Harris at 506m (1670ft).  I had, initially planned to run these mountains, but thought better of it due to my hamstring injury.  It’s a shame, as the views from the summit of Beinn Dhubh, overlooking Luskentyre beach and towards the mountains of North Harris, are fantastic.  As a side note, An Cliseam (pronounced Clisham) on North Harris is the highest mountain in the Outer Hebrides and the only Corbett at 799m (2621ft).  It was also the location where I tore ankle ligaments, just beyond the summit, a mile and a half into the Low Alpine Mountain Marathon in 2018, ending my event very prematurely. Even this, however, couldn’t detract from my enjoyment of the beauty on display.  I have only good memories of my visits to Lewis & Harris.

Passing through a gate, I dropped onto the A859 and turned right for a long steady ascent up the valley.  Although the roads are generally quiet, it was nice to leave the main road again after approximately 1km (0.66 miles).  I joined a drive as straight as a rising arrow, heading for the horizon over the rough terrain.  Water trickled in a stream to my left, wires draped lazily between telegraph poles to my right and sheep lay in the grass. I appeared to be the only thing working against the natural order of this place.

The drive led towards Laxdale Cottage, a remote cosy fishing bothy, built beside the idyllic Laxdale Loch, the leading Salmon Fishery on the Borve Lodge Estate. 

Tilly and I skirted the loch and continued our adventure up the broken old road towards a quarry just beyond the crest.  Machinery stood silently amongst huge piles of rocks and boulders, some awaiting further industry, whilst others rested out the days of their retirement in the same spot since they fell from use.

On Harris, Lewisian Gneiss (pronounced “Nice”) is quarried for many purposes…work surfaces, flooring, gravestones, facing stones on buildings and road-building, to name a few.  This rock pre-dates life on earth, going back to a period just after the hard crust formed around our planet’s molten fireball.  Unbelievably, this material actually formed over the South Pole (near Antarctica) and floated on giant tectonic plates, by mere millimetres every year, for eons, travelling across our globe to their current position.

The far South of Harris is well known as a source of the rare mineral Anorthosite.  This mineral is a coarse grained igneous (volcanic) rock, similar to granite, but a lot less abundant on earth, and certainly in Britain.  The highlands of the moon are known to have large deposits of Anorthosite, so the composition of South Harris has a lot in common with our lunar satellite.  Wow, I never thought I’d know so much about geology!

It was evident that no work was ongoing in the quarry as we passed.  No lights, flags or sirens warned us of impending earth shattering blasts, so I ran on, and before long I had reached the section of new road on the A859.  Tilly and I were near the top of the climb, and I was thankful that the final leg was downhill to the finish.  We crossed over the new road, to regain the path of the old, over several rolling peaks and troughs, until it fell once more and slid beneath the fresh tarmac that had superseded it.  

The final leg of my route took me down the road that I so love to climb by bike.  I couldn’t quite achieve the same feelings of joy on two feet, especially as my hamstring was now telling me that descents aren’t my friend at the moment.  

I cut a few corners, following footpaths across country, until the path descended to the signpost I had passed on my way out.  From here it was a simple process of retracing my steps to the junction where I started. A ram stood boldly on an elevated rocky plinth, evidently quite sure of his prowess, as he watched us pass over his wild kingdom.

As I returned home I remembered the one thing I had forgotten on my travels around the island. I had meant to look out for the dwarf juniper bushes that hide amongst the heather.  Of course, I had a fool proof plan…a 79% proof plan! A visit to the Harris Gin distillery in Tarbert! I could forget about the juniper bushes if I toasted the Isle of Harris with a G&T. This fantastic tipple infused with Sugar Kelp seaweed is the perfect way to say “Slainte Mhath” (Slan-ge-var) Harris! Now let’s see if I need “Resurrecting” in the morning!


Start / Finish : Parking at junction to Lackalee, 0.25 miles East of Aird Mhige (Ardvay), South Harris, HS3 3EH

Categories
Running Trail Running

Bolam Lake Trail Run


Distance : 3.75 miles / 6 kms (All 3 Loops)

Outer Loop = 1.5 miles / 2.4 kms

Middle Loop = 1.25 miles / 2 kms

Inner Loop = 1 mile / 1.6 kms

Terrain : Trails = 3.74 miles / 6 kms

Difficulty : Easy

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/59400588


I’m sure most people don’t think of Newcastle’s Central Station, Grey Street or Old Eldon Square as they wander around the idyllic Bolam Lake, but they have something very much in common with this popular mere and its surrounding landscape.  They were all designed by John Dobson, the famous architect.  The lake is a rare example of his landscaping work, which was influenced by Lancelot “Capability” Brown, who was born only 5 miles away at Kirkharle just 100 years earlier.  

John Dobson was commissioned in 1816 by local landowner John Beresford (later Lord Decies) to design a landscape which would provide shelter for Bolam Hall from the fierce North-Westerly winds, whilst also creating employment for the local population, who had been suffering due to a period of agricultural and economic decline.  His resulting concept involved the planting of a rich variety of ornamental trees such as fir and spruce, intertwined with oak, elm, beech and lime, and the laying out of a lake to reflect the sunlight and emphasise the magnificent foliage.  Small islands were drawn into the plans, alongside technical elements such as sluice gates, dams and overflow pipes to help maintain the lake.  I can’t help but think, however,  that John didn’t have his compass about his person when he chose a site for the design, as it certainly seems to be located South-West of Bolam Hall, so protection from those fierce North-Westerlies will be pretty much non-existent.

John Beresford improved the Bolam Estate greatly during his ownership, and the village had a thriving community.  Since that time the lake and its surroundings have seen periods of neglect, however, in 1970 it was sold to Northumberland County Council, and Bolam Lake Country Park was opened in 1972.  

It has since been a popular spot for families and dog walkers as the walk is short and the lakeside footpaths are well suited to buggies and wheelchairs.  There is also a nice open area of grass for picnics and ball games.  Car parking is located at three corners of the park, and a cafe, visitors centre and toilets are found at the Boathouse Wood car park.  I would advise visiting at quieter times if you can, as the path closest to the lake can be popular at weekends, etc.

It was from the Boathouse Wood car park that I decided to start my trail run around the lake.  I decided that this trip would be the first run for my pup Lottie.  At a little over 8 months, she is never still, diving in and out of the bushes and flying around everywhere, so I wasn’t exactly going to be overworking her on a short run with regular stops for photos.  With my other dog, Tilly, running alongside me as she always does, it was a nice little outing for the three of us.

The beauty of Bolam Lake is that you can take in three loops of the lake on differing paths, and each of slightly differing lengths.  Yes, they do overlap on two sides of this rectangular park, but this isn’t a problem as those two stretches are very pleasantly alongside the lake.

I included all three routes in my run, totalling 3.75 miles / 6 kms, but I will briefly describe each separately below.  This means you can choose where to go for yourself, and do multiples of one loop or another if you prefer.

Outer Loop – 1.5 miles / 2.4 kms

The loops around the lake are all pretty much flat, but this outer route has slightly more in the way of ups, touching the boundary wall along the park’s Northern edge.  I set off in an anti-clockwise direction from the car park on a wide and well surfaced path winding through the tall trees, before joining a fence line at the North East corner.  My kids often like to explore amongst the dense twisted branches of fallen timber in this vicinity, whilst the dogs chase in and out like frenzied beasts, challenging each other in mock death matches.  

As I left the fence and joined a wider path, I took an immediate right turn, over a couple of short sharp undulations on a narrow course up to the higher ground of Slate Hill.  With a boundary wall now on my right, I followed a course traversing along the banktop.  The path soon became a challenge.  Off-camber, narrow, rocky and rooted, I picked careful steps to remain on my feet.  The dogs must have wondered what the fuss was about, but I enjoyed the variety the trail offered.  

Before long I was dropping back down a steep slope to the lower levels, to continue my root hopping, across a carpet of pine needles between towering trunks.  Simple timber bridges spanned narrow channels, running off into the woods from nearby pastures.  As the path reached its Western limit it turned South-East, following the road towards Belsay until it met the Middle Loop path, and continued into the West Wood car park.

A colourful information board, suspended between two decoratively carved posts, stands in the car park, and gives plenty of detail about the lake’s flora and fauna.  From the far end of the car park the firm path follows the lake edge.  A bird hide perches on the last vestiges of hard standing earth before it is enveloped into the muddy swamp.   Rhododendron and beech trees do their best to camouflage the hide from aquatic fowl, whilst a deep bank of waving reeds and rushes entice them in.

This Southern shore has a couple of jetties, possibly sharing the original sites of earlier structures that previous estate owners would use for trout fishing.  Nowadays they are primarily used by inquisitive dogs and young children, trying to get a close up of the swans, with cautious parents in hot pursuit, anxious to prevent the inevitable watery mishap.

If you have the time or inclination, have a little nosey around the island towards the South-East corner of the lake.  It’s trees and shrubs create a tunnel of greenery which brings you out on a tiny gravel shore.  Kids love the island, simple though it is.

So to the Eastern shore, with it’s sluice gates and dam, and the remnants of associated machinery.   This short stretch has a neat stone wall as its boundary, separating it from the smooth tarmac lane beyond.  

It is these latter two sections along the South and East shores which are repeated when running any of the Outer, Middle or Inner Loops.

To complete the Outer Loop the path runs away from the North-East corner of the lake, up the bank and back to the car park.  If you are lucky the Ice Cream van may be in residence for a cooling reward.

Middle Loop – 1.25 miles / 2 kms

To follow the Middle Loop, start from the same car park, pass the Visitors Centre on it’s immediate left-hand side and continue along a route above the Inner Loop, which is down through the trees to your left.  This path, again, takes you through the pines, but this time the route is wide and flatter, undulating only slightly on its journey to the West Wood car park.  From the West Wood car park the loop is completed by following the lake shore as mentioned above.

Inner Loop – 1 mile / 1.6 kms

The Inner Loop hugs the lakeshore as it circumnavigates the lake.  It is the flattest route, with wide easy paths.  As I approached the North-West corner of the lake, the trees opened out onto a large grassy area, which is, as previously mentioned, popular for picnics and ball games.  Another jetty runs out into the lake in this corner. 

Passing beyond this open green space, the path joined a raised wooden walkway.  Take care here if it is wet underfoot.  Prior to the formation of the lake and sculpting of the surrounding landscape, this whole area was a boggy marshland.  The evidence of remaining marsh is still clear to see as I travelled a predetermined course across this wetland.  With dry feet, I dropped back onto terra firma at the end of the walkway, took a left turn, and joined those common stretches along the Southern and Eastern shores.  

I had chosen to run these concentric loops in an ever decreasing fashion, but it really makes no difference how you approach them.  Covid restrictions, however, meant that I had to pursue an anticlockwise direction around the lake, forever sneaking up on walkers and alerting them to my rearward approach with a friendly “Morning”.  

In general, my run was very pleasant and relaxed, which must be a ringing endorsement for Lottie.  She may have decided to run a path less travelled, through every square metre of undergrowth, but I never once had to stop to call her.  Somehow she was always within sight and appeared to be relishing the run.  Tilly, on the other hand, should be renamed “Shadow”, as she was always by my side whenever I looked.  She must be patient to follow at my pace though!

Bolam Lake is a great place to run.  Good paths, scenery, wildlife, and amenities, and the distance you run is up to you.  Give it a try!


Start / Finish : Boathouse Wood Car Park, Bolam Lake, Northumberland, NE20 0HG

Categories
Running Trail Running

Angel of the North Trail Run

Distance : 4.47 Miles / 7.2 Kms

Terrain : Trail = 3.67 Miles / 5.9 Kms ; Tarmac = 0.8 Miles / 1.29 Kms

Difficulty : Moderate

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/53092248

Would you want a massive image of your body standing on a prominent hill, taller than four double decker buses end to end, and seen by 90,000 people every day? Anthony Gormley OBE does, as he used a plaster cast of his own body for the basis of the Angel of the North.  Thought to be the largest angel sculpture in the world, it has quickly become an icon for Gateshead and the North-East of England.  Built as a post-industrial totem, it is intended to represent the coal mining, steel making and shipbuilding history of the region’s past, the transition from an age of industry to an age of information, representing our future, and as a focus for our human hopes and fears.  I was certainly keen to visit it, look at it, touch it and run round it.

Parking was easy as The Angel has her own car park, which is very easily reached from the A1…I mean, you can hardly miss it.  I set off for a solo run (no canine or human company today) from the car park, heading directly for our eponymous steel figure.  The bright blue sky with it’s cotton ball clouds provided a fantastic contrast to her majestic dark form.  I took a few pics before focusing on the run ahead of me.  Only 4.5 miles…I was looking forward to this one.

Tucked away in a corner the path runs quickly out of sight into a woodland of young trees.  The ground is so dry at the moment and the path is nicely compact and level.  I weaved easily through the trees on a route that was simple to follow, before it soon broke out into a small glade with a wider path to the main road beyond.  

On reaching the road I turned left and padded down the pavement, crossing the A1 on the Bowes incline.  Ignoring the cheeky shortcut path on my immediate left after the bridge, I continued down to the proper entrance for the footpath through Longacre Wood.  Surviving, and indeed thriving, between the East Coast mainline and the A1, this small strip of woodland was once a fragment of the larger Ravensworth Estate.  It is a mix of young, middle-aged and mature trees with abundant wildlife and a carpet of bluebells and other pretty flowers at this time of year.

At the Southern tip of the wood a path leads onto a service road for the electricity sub-station I passed on my travels.  Rarely used by vehicles, the road was nice and quiet, but for a few dog walkers.  Looking up across the field to my left I could see the head and wings of the Angel watching me over the hedgerow.  

Beyond the gate at the end of the road I crossed onto the grass verge outside Long Acre Farm.  The wide verge here is well trodden alongside Lamesley Road and it is only 100 metres to the brick road bridge over the Bowes Railway Line.  I crossed the bridge and took the steps down onto the old line.

The Bowes railway was designed by George Stephenson to carry coal from the collieries of North-West Durham to the River Tyne at Jarrow.  The earliest section opened in 1826, making it one of the world’s first modern railways.  It was 15 miles long when finished in 1855 and the railway is noted for its 8 roped-worked inclines. Coal waggons were towed up 6 of the inclines, either by horses in the early days, and later by static steam engines located at the top.  Two of the inclines, however, used a counter-balancing system, whereby descending fully-loaded waggons would pull empty waggons up the incline.  To facilitate the latter, a rope would run around a return wheel at the top of the slope.  Clever thinking Mr Stephenson!

I joined the Black Fell incline and pushed on up the slope in the direction of what was Black Fell Colliery with its remaining engine room.  The gradient remains pretty much the same all the way up to Dunkirk, where I left the line.  It must have been a labour for the steam engine…it was certainly a labour for me.

Turning left at Dunkirk, the route proceeds through the farmyard and up a gravelly lane to the appropriately named Long Bank on the B1296, opposite Ravensworth Golf Club.  Halfway up the lane I paused for a moment to take in the expansive views over a field of oilseed rape to the Team Valley, Birtley and Chester-le-Street beyond.  Hopefully, the weather will also be in your favour, as you can see for many miles.  Of course, the mini hiatus gave me a chance to recover from the mammoth climb that I had just undertaken.  I was now at the top, so it was all downhill from here!  

Horse riders passed me as I crossed Long Bank.  Sitting on a horse and moving without much effort from my tired muscles suddenly seemed to be an attractive proposition.  But not having a kingdom to offer in exchange, I trotted on into a housing estate.

Skirting around the outside of the golf course I was on a downwards trajectory and it felt easier on the lungs.  To offset this relief, downhills feel the need to offer an alternative challenge to the body.  They do this by loading your calves and quads to the point that they are constantly nagging with the aching pain of fatigue.  All par for the course I guess…no pun intended.

Always watching on the horizon, but now coming closer in view, the Angel was starting to draw me in with her presence.  Maybe it was the car actually, symbolising the end of my run, but nevertheless, it is difficult not to be drawn to such a magnificent structure.  I certainly wasn’t alone as a steady stream of folk came, sat, stood, stared and departed from beneath the angel’s mighty wings.  Whether to learn, remember, be inspired, or simply enjoy the art and surroundings,  paying a visit to the Angel is a must.

The Great North Run it wasn’t, a great Northerly run it was.  Just be prepared for the Black Fell incline, but minus the tow to the top!

Start/Finish – Angel of the North Parking, Low Fell, Gateshead, NE9 7UA

Categories
Running Trail Running

Cragside

What a perfect day to start a blog and what a superb advert for Northumberland.  The trails around Cragside and Rothbury are firm underfoot, wide and expansive, and set in the most picturesque surroundings.  Towering pines and an abundance of rhododendron and other such waxy-leaved plants create avenues reminiscent of the American Pacific North-West….and you wouldn’t think it was March, with wall to wall sunshine in bright blue skies and a gentle breeze to keep me cool and push me along.

Cragside is a National Trust owned property, best known for being the first house in the world to be lit by hydro-electric power.  The estate was created by Lord William Armstrong, a philanthropic industrialist engineer and his wife, Lady Margaret, who had a love of natural sciences.

I set off from the Croziers car park, leaving Zoe, Florrie, Martha and the dogs to wander and explore the estate’s labyrinth. After a mile or so of gradual ascent on dusty trails I joined the carriage drive at the Moorside car park for an easy tarmac trot downhill to the estate exit.  Crossing the main road on Cragpit hill (A killer climb for any cyclist) I was back onto firm trail and soon dropping down to cross the Debdon Burn. 

Once through the gate beyond Primrose Cottage the real effort begins, with a long steady uphill through the trees until I reached three gates near the top of Crocky’s Heugh. 

Taking the gate on the left I passed an old wooden trailer which had a nice rustic quality, but I barely recognised the remains of an old quarry to my right, as I continued upwards onto the open heathland. 

On a good day up here you can see for many miles around….the Cheviots to the North, Simonside to the South, and the wide Coquet valley to the West.

The wide trail winds around the top of the hill, just below a triangulation point and Ship Crag before descending past a radio antenna and on to a gate beyond.

Once through the gate a short sharp climb brings you onto Addyheugh.

It is worth pausing at the crest to look at the names and dates carved into the sandstone and enjoy the precipitous views over the town of Rothbury from this long visited spot. 

The wide trail generally descends from here, and quite steeply in places, before turning sharply left to join a narrow rocky footpath, down between waxy shrubs.  This path opens onto the B6341 at the West end of Tumbleton Lake, so take care crossing the road here and join the estate path along the edge of the lake. 

The views across the lake towards Home Farm are stunning and it is worth noting that the farm is the location of the estate cafe. Running past the estate entrance, I dropped onto the carriage drive, rounding the South-East end of Tumebleton Lake.

Descending the steps on the right, I followed the weaving footpath through the tall pines to a footbridge over the Debdon Burn.

This spot provides an iconic view of Cragside House, nicely framed by a grand iron bridge in the foreground.   It is well worth taking a breather here because the final mile of your route takes you sharply uphill beyond the back of the house onto Crozier Drive

Maybe take just a moment to appreciate the towering chimney pots from the rear of the house as you pass, before you haul yourself up the steep slope ahead.  I confess that I did pause for a brief reprieve on a well positioned rock below a small cave near the top of this ramp. 

Once up onto Crozier Drive the gradient relents for a short distance as I passed a pretty tarn banked with reeds and rushes.  Just beyond the tarn it was onwards and upwards again, although thankfully on an easier incline, until reaching the children’s play area that I passed on the way out.  From here it was a short jaunt back to the carpark with a little traverse of the limestone slabs on the way…just for fun!  If you are lucky the kiosk may be open for a well earned refreshment….full fat ice cold Pepsi was just the ticket!!

Now if you are not a National Trust member, you will have to pay to visit the estate, but I can’t recommend it highly enough, and there are toilets, refreshments and plenty of car parking on site too.  On a warm sunny day it is an absolute charm and there is plenty to explore for adults and children alike.  And of course…the area is almost tailor-made for your trail shoes!! Enjoy!!

Categories
Running Trail Running

Housesteads & Sycamore Gap Trail Run

Distance : 7.18 Miles / 11.56 Kms

Terrain : Trail = 7.08 Miles / 11.39 Kms ; Tarmac = 0.1 Miles / 0.17 Kms

Difficulty : Challenging

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/52809435

Hadrian’s Wall stands amongst some of the most scenic and rugged countryside in the UK.  For nearly 2000 years it has drawn an unwavering line across the landscape, representing the Northernmost reaches of the Roman Empire in Britain.  It was built to defend against any marauding forces from the far North of our island, and the remaining ruins of forts such as at Housesteads and Vindolanda give us a glimpse of what life would have been like back then for soldiers stationed along the wall.  But enough of the history lesson, relevant though it is.  Yes, I came to this section of the wall as it is interesting, but also because it is beautiful and challenging terrain for trail running.

This may not have been the longest or most mountainous run, but it was certainly tough.  The first half of the run took me from Steel Rigg carpark, which is located a short distance from the military road (B6318), taking the road North opposite The Sill.  Whilst I mention it, The Sill is a tourist information centre which opened in 2017, highlighting the geology of the region, especially that of the Whin Sill, a huge layer of igneous rock which conveniently provides the tall crags along which a good section of Hadrian’s Wall was built.

The path is easy to follow, either as it is well worn by walkers or because it follows farm tracks.  Over the first few miles the route undulated across fields of wary sheep standing over their newborn lambs, and vaguely interested cattle, obviously used to the passing human with attached canine.  It was a little muddy in places but nothing too clarty and Crag Lough glistened in the sunshine.  It has been quite dry recently, although the melt water from yesterday’s dusting of snow would likely have made its contribution to the conditions underfoot.

Plenty of snow remained, however, on the North-facing slopes, often framing the picturesque scenery. After approximately three miles the terrain became a little wetter and boggier underfoot, with regular muddy and marshy patches. 

Although only a few degrees above zero, the sun still managed to slowly roast the slightly overdressed runner caught under its glare, so I was very pleased to pass through a small copse of trees and enjoy its cooling shade momentarily.  At least, on leaving the trees behind, I could see a gate ahead, which signalled the route joining the wall itself and the start of the returning half of the run.  After possibly a third of a mile of further boggy ground and a short sharp grassy climb I was able to rest at, and on, the gate.  I couldn’t use it for its intended purpose, however, as it was padlocked, no doubt due to covid 19.  Tilly didn’t like the look of the stile so my oft-used skills as a crane for canine beasts came into use and I, henceforth, would be destined to be filthy-armed for the rest of the run.

I hadn’t considered just how challenging running the actual wall is.  The folks who run the length of the wall must be either super-human, or insane….or both.  Those Roman soldiers must have been pretty fit signori.  The next three and a half miles nearly had me on my knees and my lungs on the floor with its rollercoaster profile.  However, although tough on the body, the navigation is easy (follow the big brick thing) and it is well worth the effort.  Up here on a good day you can see for countless miles around in all directions. 

An explore of Housesteads fort and a quick stop to admire the iconic Sycamore Gap in passing….this route is too good to miss.  There were plenty of opportunities for me to stop and pretend to be admiring the views as I caught my breath.  In truth, I stopped so many times to take a pic that my phone ran out of battery before the end.

The car park had been half-full when I arrived, but this area is quite vast so I didn’t see people very often on my travels.  By the time I returned to the car I was spent and for once I think Tilly was quite tired too.  I was very glad to see a coffee-van in the carpark.  The Americano helped keep my wits about me on the rolling waves of the military road as I drove home.  This landscape is much easier in the car….but where is the fun in that!!

Start/Finish Location: Steel Rigg Car Park, Henshaw, Northumberland NE47 7AN