Distance : 9.1 Miles / 14.65 Kms
Terrain : Trail = 6.05 Miles / 9.74 Kms ; Tarmac = 3.05 Miles / 4.91 Kms
Ascent : 939 ft / 286 m
Difficulty : Challenging
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/59121216
I was lucky enough to be staying only 2 minutes from the start of my run on South Harris and it was a mild sunny evening as I trotted down the road with Tilly at my side. We would be leaving this wonderful island the next morning and I was determined to squeeze in a trail run in this rugged wilderness. I have a niggling hamstring problem at the moment, so I would be taking it very steady, but I was desperate to be out.
My route would take me from the East Coast to the West, via the Coffin Road. From the West coast I would return via the island’s old roads, before touching new roads towards the finish. To reflect the vaguely “grave to cradle” character of the route, I chose to name it “The Resurrection Run”. The name doesn’t quite follow the “Benjamin Button” theme, but hey, you get the picture and it has a nice ring to it!
I won’t revisit all of the island’s background and history here, as it has been lightly touched upon in my previous Isle of Harris cycling blog posts, so, if you haven’t already, please give them a read. If the read doesn’t quite capture it, the photos show just how stunning this landscape is.
Setting off from the road junction to Lackalee, just East of Aird Mhige (Ardvay), a finger post directs you towards Seilebost, your target on the West coast. A strip of tarmac road with a central grassy runner gives the impression that it’s metalled surface will lead you smoothly all the way to your destination. The initial steep rise, however, merely disguises the fact that the tarmac disappears 100 metres beyond at a sheep fank (a set of stone walled pens used for sorting sheep). Does this mean a female sheep in a pen is a “Fank Ewe”? (Sorry!!)
Passing through a gate to the side of the fank, I was pleased to see that the path is well trodden and easy to follow. It was reassuring that the navigation should be easy, but I still needed to concentrate on my footing amongst the rocks, and I was well aware that this wasn’t going to be a flat run. At the next signpost I joined the Hebridean Way, headed West towards a White house standing on the shore at Ceann a Bhaigh.
To my right, everywhere, from my feet to the blue sky, was rock and heather. No fields bring uniformity to this barren landscape, and the few small trees lie along the edges of lochs and smothering their tiny islands. The only constant here is the heather covered peat, softening the jagged outline of ancient rock, as far as the eye can see. It is little wonder Stanley Kubrick used tinted shots of parts of this landscape as the surface of Jupiter in his classic film “2001: A Space Odyssey”.
I dropped down to the White house, crossing a stream, before joining the Coffin Road travelling North-West. The rough rocky landscape of the East coast provided no suitable sites for cemeteries, and no road was available through the bays region, so the local population of old would have to transport their coffins to suitable level ground on the West of the island, for burial. They did this via the Coffin Road, a narrow rocky track which led over these hills for several miles.
Having read literature about the Coffin Road, I had been warned that it would be very boggy and unclear in places, however, as I ascended towards Bealach Eorabhat, I was pleased to note that the path had obviously been upgraded. Although the ground had been dry lately, I imagine that the current gravel surface should hold up quite well under inclement conditions. Many channels have been cut into the path to allow water to continue on it’s journey without drenching the feet of passing runners, walkers, or coffin bearers. The penance for dry feet is to take repeated small leaps across these channels as you make your way up the hillside.
As I approached the top of the bealach, the path ran below the towering crags of Creag an Eoin, meaning “Rock of the Bird”. Golden eagles nest in these cliffs. Flights must have been cancelled when I passed, but you may be lucky enough to see one of these amazing raptors soaring overhead.
The path was now wide and easy as I ran down towards Seilebost, with views opening up towards the golden shores and blue seas of Traigh Losgaintir (Luskentyre beach). I was getting thirsty now under the hot sun, and I wished I hadn’t worn a thermal. When will I ever dress properly for the occasion!? The lochs and shores teased at my need for liquid but I wasn’t going to keel over, so I pressed on. Next time I’ll take my hydration pack and carry the thermal instead.
The dry track ran down to Loch Carran where it met the old road to Tarbert. It felt nice to run on the smooth surface of the old road for a while. Although broken in places due to the tests of time and weather, the old road carries you along swiftly, covering ground in a fraction of the time it would take should you veer from it’s decisive path.
I was heading North now, and directly towards Beinn Losgaintir, with Beinn Dhubh sitting on it’s shoulder, the latter being the highest point on South Harris at 506m (1670ft). I had, initially planned to run these mountains, but thought better of it due to my hamstring injury. It’s a shame, as the views from the summit of Beinn Dhubh, overlooking Luskentyre beach and towards the mountains of North Harris, are fantastic. As a side note, An Cliseam (pronounced Clisham) on North Harris is the highest mountain in the Outer Hebrides and the only Corbett at 799m (2621ft). It was also the location where I tore ankle ligaments, just beyond the summit, a mile and a half into the Low Alpine Mountain Marathon in 2018, ending my event very prematurely. Even this, however, couldn’t detract from my enjoyment of the beauty on display. I have only good memories of my visits to Lewis & Harris.
Passing through a gate, I dropped onto the A859 and turned right for a long steady ascent up the valley. Although the roads are generally quiet, it was nice to leave the main road again after approximately 1km (0.66 miles). I joined a drive as straight as a rising arrow, heading for the horizon over the rough terrain. Water trickled in a stream to my left, wires draped lazily between telegraph poles to my right and sheep lay in the grass. I appeared to be the only thing working against the natural order of this place.
The drive led towards Laxdale Cottage, a remote cosy fishing bothy, built beside the idyllic Laxdale Loch, the leading Salmon Fishery on the Borve Lodge Estate.
Tilly and I skirted the loch and continued our adventure up the broken old road towards a quarry just beyond the crest. Machinery stood silently amongst huge piles of rocks and boulders, some awaiting further industry, whilst others rested out the days of their retirement in the same spot since they fell from use.
On Harris, Lewisian Gneiss (pronounced “Nice”) is quarried for many purposes…work surfaces, flooring, gravestones, facing stones on buildings and road-building, to name a few. This rock pre-dates life on earth, going back to a period just after the hard crust formed around our planet’s molten fireball. Unbelievably, this material actually formed over the South Pole (near Antarctica) and floated on giant tectonic plates, by mere millimetres every year, for eons, travelling across our globe to their current position.
The far South of Harris is well known as a source of the rare mineral Anorthosite. This mineral is a coarse grained igneous (volcanic) rock, similar to granite, but a lot less abundant on earth, and certainly in Britain. The highlands of the moon are known to have large deposits of Anorthosite, so the composition of South Harris has a lot in common with our lunar satellite. Wow, I never thought I’d know so much about geology!
It was evident that no work was ongoing in the quarry as we passed. No lights, flags or sirens warned us of impending earth shattering blasts, so I ran on, and before long I had reached the section of new road on the A859. Tilly and I were near the top of the climb, and I was thankful that the final leg was downhill to the finish. We crossed over the new road, to regain the path of the old, over several rolling peaks and troughs, until it fell once more and slid beneath the fresh tarmac that had superseded it.
The final leg of my route took me down the road that I so love to climb by bike. I couldn’t quite achieve the same feelings of joy on two feet, especially as my hamstring was now telling me that descents aren’t my friend at the moment.
I cut a few corners, following footpaths across country, until the path descended to the signpost I had passed on my way out. From here it was a simple process of retracing my steps to the junction where I started. A ram stood boldly on an elevated rocky plinth, evidently quite sure of his prowess, as he watched us pass over his wild kingdom.
As I returned home I remembered the one thing I had forgotten on my travels around the island. I had meant to look out for the dwarf juniper bushes that hide amongst the heather. Of course, I had a fool proof plan…a 79% proof plan! A visit to the Harris Gin distillery in Tarbert! I could forget about the juniper bushes if I toasted the Isle of Harris with a G&T. This fantastic tipple infused with Sugar Kelp seaweed is the perfect way to say “Slainte Mhath” (Slan-ge-var) Harris! Now let’s see if I need “Resurrecting” in the morning!