Category: Running

Running in any environment

Categories
Running Trail Running

Isle of Harris – The Resurrection Run

Distance : 9.1 Miles / 14.65 Kms

Terrain : Trail = 6.05 Miles / 9.74 Kms ; Tarmac = 3.05 Miles / 4.91 Kms

Ascent : 939 ft / 286 m

Difficulty : Challenging

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/59121216

Isle of Harris – The Resurrection Run GPXDownload
Isle of Harris – The Resurrection Run FITDownload


I was lucky enough to be staying only 2 minutes from the start of my run on South Harris and it was a mild sunny evening as I trotted down the road with Tilly at my side.  We would be leaving this wonderful island the next morning and I was determined to squeeze in a trail run in this rugged wilderness.  I have a niggling hamstring problem at the moment, so I would be taking it very steady, but I was desperate to be out.

My route would take me from the East Coast to the West, via the Coffin Road.  From the West coast I would return via the island’s old roads, before touching new roads towards the finish.  To reflect the vaguely “grave to cradle” character of the route, I chose to name it “The Resurrection Run”.  The name doesn’t quite follow the “Benjamin Button” theme, but hey, you get the picture and it has a nice ring to it!

I won’t revisit all of the island’s background and history here, as it has been lightly touched upon in my previous Isle of Harris cycling blog posts, so, if you haven’t already, please give them a read.  If the read doesn’t quite capture it, the photos show just how stunning this landscape is.

Setting off from the road junction to Lackalee, just East of Aird Mhige (Ardvay), a finger post directs you towards Seilebost, your target on the West coast.  A strip of tarmac road with a central grassy runner gives the impression that it’s metalled surface will lead you smoothly all the way to your destination.  The initial steep rise, however, merely disguises the fact that the tarmac disappears 100 metres beyond at a sheep fank (a set of stone walled pens used for sorting sheep).  Does this mean a female sheep in a pen is a “Fank Ewe”? (Sorry!!)

Passing through a gate to the side of the fank, I was pleased to see that the path is well trodden and easy to follow.  It was reassuring that the navigation should be easy, but I still needed to concentrate on my footing amongst the rocks, and I was well aware that this wasn’t going to be a flat run.  At the next signpost I joined the Hebridean Way, headed West towards a White house standing on the shore at Ceann a Bhaigh.  

To my right, everywhere, from my feet to the blue sky, was rock and heather.  No fields bring uniformity to this barren landscape, and the few small trees lie along the edges of lochs and smothering their tiny islands.  The only constant here is the heather covered peat, softening the jagged outline of ancient rock, as far as the eye can see.  It is little wonder Stanley Kubrick used tinted shots of parts of this landscape as the surface of Jupiter in his classic film “2001: A Space Odyssey”.

I dropped down to the White house, crossing a stream, before joining the Coffin Road travelling North-West.  The rough rocky landscape of the East coast provided no suitable sites for cemeteries, and no road was available through the bays region, so the local population of old would have to transport their coffins to suitable level ground on the West of the island, for burial.  They did this via the Coffin Road, a narrow rocky track which led over these hills for several miles.  

Having read literature about the Coffin Road, I had been warned that it would be very boggy and unclear in places, however, as I ascended towards Bealach Eorabhat, I was pleased to note that the path had obviously been upgraded.  Although the ground had been dry lately, I imagine that the current gravel surface should hold up quite well under inclement conditions.  Many channels have been cut into the path to allow water to continue on it’s journey without drenching the feet of passing runners, walkers, or coffin bearers.  The penance for dry feet is to take repeated small leaps across these channels as you make your way up the hillside.

As I approached the top of the bealach, the path ran below the towering crags of Creag an Eoin, meaning “Rock of the Bird”.  Golden eagles nest in these cliffs.  Flights must have been cancelled when I passed, but you may be lucky enough to see one of these amazing raptors soaring overhead. 

The path was now wide and easy as I ran down towards Seilebost, with views opening up towards the golden shores and blue seas of Traigh Losgaintir (Luskentyre beach).  I was getting thirsty now under the hot sun, and I wished I hadn’t worn a thermal.  When will I ever dress properly for the occasion!?  The lochs and shores teased at my need for liquid but I wasn’t going to keel over, so I pressed on.  Next time I’ll take my hydration pack and carry the thermal instead. 

The dry track ran down to Loch Carran where it met the old road to Tarbert.  It felt nice to run on the smooth surface of the old road for a while.  Although broken in places due to the tests of time and weather, the old road carries you along swiftly, covering ground in a fraction of the time it would take should you veer from it’s decisive path.

I was heading North now, and directly towards Beinn Losgaintir, with Beinn Dhubh sitting on it’s shoulder, the latter being the highest point on South Harris at 506m (1670ft).  I had, initially planned to run these mountains, but thought better of it due to my hamstring injury.  It’s a shame, as the views from the summit of Beinn Dhubh, overlooking Luskentyre beach and towards the mountains of North Harris, are fantastic.  As a side note, An Cliseam (pronounced Clisham) on North Harris is the highest mountain in the Outer Hebrides and the only Corbett at 799m (2621ft).  It was also the location where I tore ankle ligaments, just beyond the summit, a mile and a half into the Low Alpine Mountain Marathon in 2018, ending my event very prematurely. Even this, however, couldn’t detract from my enjoyment of the beauty on display.  I have only good memories of my visits to Lewis & Harris.

Passing through a gate, I dropped onto the A859 and turned right for a long steady ascent up the valley.  Although the roads are generally quiet, it was nice to leave the main road again after approximately 1km (0.66 miles).  I joined a drive as straight as a rising arrow, heading for the horizon over the rough terrain.  Water trickled in a stream to my left, wires draped lazily between telegraph poles to my right and sheep lay in the grass. I appeared to be the only thing working against the natural order of this place.

The drive led towards Laxdale Cottage, a remote cosy fishing bothy, built beside the idyllic Laxdale Loch, the leading Salmon Fishery on the Borve Lodge Estate. 

Tilly and I skirted the loch and continued our adventure up the broken old road towards a quarry just beyond the crest.  Machinery stood silently amongst huge piles of rocks and boulders, some awaiting further industry, whilst others rested out the days of their retirement in the same spot since they fell from use.

On Harris, Lewisian Gneiss (pronounced “Nice”) is quarried for many purposes…work surfaces, flooring, gravestones, facing stones on buildings and road-building, to name a few.  This rock pre-dates life on earth, going back to a period just after the hard crust formed around our planet’s molten fireball.  Unbelievably, this material actually formed over the South Pole (near Antarctica) and floated on giant tectonic plates, by mere millimetres every year, for eons, travelling across our globe to their current position.

The far South of Harris is well known as a source of the rare mineral Anorthosite.  This mineral is a coarse grained igneous (volcanic) rock, similar to granite, but a lot less abundant on earth, and certainly in Britain.  The highlands of the moon are known to have large deposits of Anorthosite, so the composition of South Harris has a lot in common with our lunar satellite.  Wow, I never thought I’d know so much about geology!

It was evident that no work was ongoing in the quarry as we passed.  No lights, flags or sirens warned us of impending earth shattering blasts, so I ran on, and before long I had reached the section of new road on the A859.  Tilly and I were near the top of the climb, and I was thankful that the final leg was downhill to the finish.  We crossed over the new road, to regain the path of the old, over several rolling peaks and troughs, until it fell once more and slid beneath the fresh tarmac that had superseded it.  

The final leg of my route took me down the road that I so love to climb by bike.  I couldn’t quite achieve the same feelings of joy on two feet, especially as my hamstring was now telling me that descents aren’t my friend at the moment.  

I cut a few corners, following footpaths across country, until the path descended to the signpost I had passed on my way out.  From here it was a simple process of retracing my steps to the junction where I started. A ram stood boldly on an elevated rocky plinth, evidently quite sure of his prowess, as he watched us pass over his wild kingdom.

As I returned home I remembered the one thing I had forgotten on my travels around the island. I had meant to look out for the dwarf juniper bushes that hide amongst the heather.  Of course, I had a fool proof plan…a 79% proof plan! A visit to the Harris Gin distillery in Tarbert! I could forget about the juniper bushes if I toasted the Isle of Harris with a G&T. This fantastic tipple infused with Sugar Kelp seaweed is the perfect way to say “Slainte Mhath” (Slan-ge-var) Harris! Now let’s see if I need “Resurrecting” in the morning!

Start / Finish : Parking at junction to Lackalee, 0.25 miles East of Aird Mhige (Ardvay), South Harris, HS3 3EH

Categories
Running Trail Running

Bolam Lake Trail Run

Distance : 3.75 miles / 6 kms (All 3 Loops)

Outer Loop = 1.5 miles / 2.4 kms

Middle Loop = 1.25 miles / 2 kms

Inner Loop = 1 mile / 1.6 kms

Terrain : Trails = 3.74 miles / 6 kms

Difficulty : Easy

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/59400588

Bolam Lake Trail Run GPXDownload
Bolam Lake Trail Run FITDownload

I’m sure most people don’t think of Newcastle’s Central Station, Grey Street or Old Eldon Square as they wander around the idyllic Bolam Lake, but they have something very much in common with this popular mere and its surrounding landscape.  They were all designed by John Dobson, the famous architect.  The lake is a rare example of his landscaping work, which was influenced by Lancelot “Capability” Brown, who was born only 5 miles away at Kirkharle just 100 years earlier.  

John Dobson was commissioned in 1816 by local landowner John Beresford (later Lord Decies) to design a landscape which would provide shelter for Bolam Hall from the fierce North-Westerly winds, whilst also creating employment for the local population, who had been suffering due to a period of agricultural and economic decline.  His resulting concept involved the planting of a rich variety of ornamental trees such as fir and spruce, intertwined with oak, elm, beech and lime, and the laying out of a lake to reflect the sunlight and emphasise the magnificent foliage.  Small islands were drawn into the plans, alongside technical elements such as sluice gates, dams and overflow pipes to help maintain the lake.  I can’t help but think, however,  that John didn’t have his compass about his person when he chose a site for the design, as it certainly seems to be located South-West of Bolam Hall, so protection from those fierce North-Westerlies will be pretty much non-existent.

John Beresford improved the Bolam Estate greatly during his ownership, and the village had a thriving community.  Since that time the lake and its surroundings have seen periods of neglect, however, in 1970 it was sold to Northumberland County Council, and Bolam Lake Country Park was opened in 1972.  

It has since been a popular spot for families and dog walkers as the walk is short and the lakeside footpaths are well suited to buggies and wheelchairs.  There is also a nice open area of grass for picnics and ball games.  Car parking is located at three corners of the park, and a cafe, visitors centre and toilets are found at the Boathouse Wood car park.  I would advise visiting at quieter times if you can, as the path closest to the lake can be popular at weekends, etc.

It was from the Boathouse Wood car park that I decided to start my trail run around the lake.  I decided that this trip would be the first run for my pup Lottie.  At a little over 8 months, she is never still, diving in and out of the bushes and flying around everywhere, so I wasn’t exactly going to be overworking her on a short run with regular stops for photos.  With my other dog, Tilly, running alongside me as she always does, it was a nice little outing for the three of us.

The beauty of Bolam Lake is that you can take in three loops of the lake on differing paths, and each of slightly differing lengths.  Yes, they do overlap on two sides of this rectangular park, but this isn’t a problem as those two stretches are very pleasantly alongside the lake.

I included all three routes in my run, totalling 3.75 miles / 6 kms, but I will briefly describe each separately below.  This means you can choose where to go for yourself, and do multiples of one loop or another if you prefer.

Outer Loop – 1.5 miles / 2.4 kms

The loops around the lake are all pretty much flat, but this outer route has slightly more in the way of ups, touching the boundary wall along the park’s Northern edge.  I set off in an anti-clockwise direction from the car park on a wide and well surfaced path winding through the tall trees, before joining a fence line at the North East corner.  My kids often like to explore amongst the dense twisted branches of fallen timber in this vicinity, whilst the dogs chase in and out like frenzied beasts, challenging each other in mock death matches.  

As I left the fence and joined a wider path, I took an immediate right turn, over a couple of short sharp undulations on a narrow course up to the higher ground of Slate Hill.  With a boundary wall now on my right, I followed a course traversing along the banktop.  The path soon became a challenge.  Off-camber, narrow, rocky and rooted, I picked careful steps to remain on my feet.  The dogs must have wondered what the fuss was about, but I enjoyed the variety the trail offered.  

Before long I was dropping back down a steep slope to the lower levels, to continue my root hopping, across a carpet of pine needles between towering trunks.  Simple timber bridges spanned narrow channels, running off into the woods from nearby pastures.  As the path reached its Western limit it turned South-East, following the road towards Belsay until it met the Middle Loop path, and continued into the West Wood car park.

A colourful information board, suspended between two decoratively carved posts, stands in the car park, and gives plenty of detail about the lake’s flora and fauna.  From the far end of the car park the firm path follows the lake edge.  A bird hide perches on the last vestiges of hard standing earth before it is enveloped into the muddy swamp.   Rhododendron and beech trees do their best to camouflage the hide from aquatic fowl, whilst a deep bank of waving reeds and rushes entice them in.

This Southern shore has a couple of jetties, possibly sharing the original sites of earlier structures that previous estate owners would use for trout fishing.  Nowadays they are primarily used by inquisitive dogs and young children, trying to get a close up of the swans, with cautious parents in hot pursuit, anxious to prevent the inevitable watery mishap.

If you have the time or inclination, have a little nosey around the island towards the South-East corner of the lake.  It’s trees and shrubs create a tunnel of greenery which brings you out on a tiny gravel shore.  Kids love the island, simple though it is.

So to the Eastern shore, with it’s sluice gates and dam, and the remnants of associated machinery.   This short stretch has a neat stone wall as its boundary, separating it from the smooth tarmac lane beyond.  

It is these latter two sections along the South and East shores which are repeated when running any of the Outer, Middle or Inner Loops.

To complete the Outer Loop the path runs away from the North-East corner of the lake, up the bank and back to the car park.  If you are lucky the Ice Cream van may be in residence for a cooling reward.

Middle Loop – 1.25 miles / 2 kms

To follow the Middle Loop, start from the same car park, pass the Visitors Centre on it’s immediate left-hand side and continue along a route above the Inner Loop, which is down through the trees to your left.  This path, again, takes you through the pines, but this time the route is wide and flatter, undulating only slightly on its journey to the West Wood car park.  From the West Wood car park the loop is completed by following the lake shore as mentioned above.

Inner Loop – 1 mile / 1.6 kms

The Inner Loop hugs the lakeshore as it circumnavigates the lake.  It is the flattest route, with wide easy paths.  As I approached the North-West corner of the lake, the trees opened out onto a large grassy area, which is, as previously mentioned, popular for picnics and ball games.  Another jetty runs out into the lake in this corner. 

Passing beyond this open green space, the path joined a raised wooden walkway.  Take care here if it is wet underfoot.  Prior to the formation of the lake and sculpting of the surrounding landscape, this whole area was a boggy marshland.  The evidence of remaining marsh is still clear to see as I travelled a predetermined course across this wetland.  With dry feet, I dropped back onto terra firma at the end of the walkway, took a left turn, and joined those common stretches along the Southern and Eastern shores.  

I had chosen to run these concentric loops in an ever decreasing fashion, but it really makes no difference how you approach them.  Covid restrictions, however, meant that I had to pursue an anticlockwise direction around the lake, forever sneaking up on walkers and alerting them to my rearward approach with a friendly “Morning”.  

In general, my run was very pleasant and relaxed, which must be a ringing endorsement for Lottie.  She may have decided to run a path less travelled, through every square metre of undergrowth, but I never once had to stop to call her.  Somehow she was always within sight and appeared to be relishing the run.  Tilly, on the other hand, should be renamed “Shadow”, as she was always by my side whenever I looked.  She must be patient to follow at my pace though!

Bolam Lake is a great place to run.  Good paths, scenery, wildlife, and amenities, and the distance you run is up to you.  Give it a try!

Start / Finish : Boathouse Wood Car Park, Bolam Lake, Northumberland, NE20 0HG

Categories
Running Tarmac Running

Newcastle Upon Tyne Tourist Trail Run

Distance : 6.14 Miles / 9.88 Kms

Terrain : Tarmac = 5.94 / 9.56 Kms ; Trail = 0.2 Miles / 0.32 Kms

Difficulty : Moderate

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/58440614

Newcastle Tourist Trail Run GPXDownload
Newcastle Tourist Trail Run FITDownload

By population size, Newcastle Upon Tyne is one of the UK’s top ten cities, with nearly 300,000 residents. This regional capital has a strong history as an important trading port and industrial centre, having been involved in wool and coal exports, locomotive building, ship building, armaments and glass making, amongst other trades.  

In the modern age it has a diverse economy involving science, finance, retail, education and tourism.  The city is probably best known for its lively night-life and large student population, reflecting the friendly and welcoming attitude of the locals.  The people of this region are also known for their obsessive and long-suffering devotion to Newcastle United Football Club, or the “Toon” as it is affectionately known.  You would be hard pushed to travel the streets of the city without seeing a black and white shirt.

Impressive architecture is at every turn, providing a home for the bustling shops, cafes and restaurants, and the fascinating art and cultural venues, whilst framing the city’s attractive green spaces.  This scene is all located within a compact city centre, offering the perfect opportunity for a run of discovery, taking in the sights, sounds and smells of this fantastic urban hub.  

It would, of course, be unfair of me not to include Gateshead in this narrative. After all, this is where my run started and finished, just outside of the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Arts, and alongside the Millenium Eye on the South side of the Tyne.  Newcastle and Gateshead are very often referred to in the same sentence, and the two are intimately joined across the River Tyne by no less than seven bridges within a mile stretch.

Gateshead hosts the Norman Foster designed Sage music centre, Tyneside’s own Sydney opera house, with its fantastic alienesque shape.  This impressive venue is such a strong identity for Gateshead.  Having attended many concerts within the acoustically designed timber-clad halls of the Sage, I describe it “like sitting within an acoustic guitar”, but it is not as simple as that.  The concrete used in its construction was specially designed with large air bubbles to improve acoustics and sound insulation.  The resulting sound quality is amazing and enhances the many genres of music that are showcased within.

Well let’s talk about the run itself, as it is easy to be distracted by the wealth of interesting facts and figures in the city’s fabric.  It was a cloudy but dry Friday morning for a run.  No rain was forecast so I left my shell jacket in the car.

I set off, heading West along the Tyne with my good friend, Adam.  We ran below the bulging glass walls of the Sage and under the iconic Tyne Bridge, being careful not to slip on Kittiwake “excretion”, or indeed be hit by a faecal aerial strike.  

Hazard safely avoided, we turned right, onto the Swing Bridge. Built in 1876 by the industrialist William Armstrong, to allow larger ships to travel up the Tyne to his works, it was the largest swing bridge in the world when it was built.  It still opens occasionally for river traffic, and on the first Wednesday of every month as a maintenance exercise.

It may have been early morning, but the empty wooden tables stretching along the riverside by the container housed bar of the River Brew Company, reminded me of the social impact that Covid 19 has made to us all. 

Crossing the Swing bridge gave us a great view of the Tyne Bridge, revealing an image remembered fondly by Geordies.  Over and beyond, we crossed the road and ascended the alley steps, ducking below an arch in the old city walls, on our way up to Newcastle Castle.  This Norman fortress is the reason Newcastle has its name, and the views from the roof give a quintessential view over the River Tyne.

Crossing the cobbles, we eased off our pace, took a photo and recovered after that sharp climb from the riverside.  Under the East Coast mainline, we ran onto the wooden walkway which took us through the Black Gate, a fortified gatehouse of Newcastle Castle.

Taking a right turn again, we passed below blossoming trees as we dropped onto The Side.  The Side was an important and much used road down to the river in medieval times, prior to the formation of Dean Street and Grey Street.  The latter were created when the Lort Burn was infilled in the 1740’s, because it was deemed  “a vast nauseous hollow…a place of filth and dirt”.

Newcastle Cathedral now stood before us.  Otherwise known as St Nicholas’ Cathedral, it is the holy structure that bestows city status on Newcastle.  Skirting round the spire of the cathedral we ran down Mosley Street, before crossing at the crossroads and making our way up the fantastic Grey Street.  

Often voted one of the most attractive streets in the UK, it was built in the 1830’s by Richard Grainger in a Georgian style with vertical dormers, domes, turrets and spikes. The impressive Theatre Royal sits towards the top of Grey Street.  The local council is gradually pedestrianising Grey Street, which was evident by the migration of walking and cycling lanes into the road and cafes/bars with outside seating on widened pavements.  A very good move I’d say.

Standing as a focal point at the top of the street is Greys Monument. Charles Grey, 2nd Earl Grey himself stands on a plinth atop a 135 foot high doric pillar.  OK, not the guy himself, but a statue of him, to celebrate the 1830’s prime minister and his role in the reform act and the abolition of slavery.  A viewing platform at the top is occasionally open to the public, but you won’t find me up there with my head for heights…or lack of.  It must be a good view though, if you can stand after climbing 164 steps.  When a statue and column will not suffice, then you could have a bergamot flavoured tea named after you.  It is, however, a touch floral for my simple palate.

The city centre was starting to liven up when we passed the Old Eldon Square.  This green space with a war memorial of St George slaying the dragon in the centre was popularly called the “hippy field” when I was growing up.  I can’t imagine why!

Adam and I made our way around the corner, away from the main shopping area, towards China Town.  China Town stands on an area of the old city where part of Blackfriars monastery once stood, close to the city walls.  An impressive Chinese Arch with it’s two guardian lions stands at the entrance to the street.

Running under the arch towards the towering St James Park football stadium, we headed first for The Strawberry Pub.  This little drinking establishment has long been an essential visit for many supporters of Newcastle United.  I think any self respecting Newcastle fan must have at least one pint from the pumps of this place at some point in their lifetime.

Even if you are not a football fan, everyone should visit St James Park to savour the atmosphere on a matchday.  When the team play well (it can happen!) and the 52,000 crowd is in good “fettle”, the noise, fervour and sensations can be overwhelmingly good, especially when they score!

Maybe one day the club might again reach the heights it aspires to, but as of the present day, those feats appear a long way off.  Simply avoiding relegation from the Premier League seems to be the seasonal objective in this era.

Anyhoo, I padded the perimeter of the stadium with my fellow fan Adam, briefly touching on the well trodden subject of football, noting that we were both numb after many years of disappointment.

Crossing Leazes Park we almost tripped on the pigeons being fed by the lake.  Sitting opposite the entrance to the Royal Victoria Infirmary, many patients have circum-navigated this little lake in dressing gown and slippers.  I hope they were able to revisit in happier times.

Our route now squeezed between the student blocks on Richardson Road and the Hospital and University, before alighting at the student favourite, North Terrace pub.

Over the central motorway (A167) we reached the Town Moor.  This wide expanse of greenery has long been used as a grazing spot for cattle, and a place to exercise within and commute through, for humans.  

At the South-East edge lies Exhibition Park, a pretty and well-kept space containing a small lake, overlooked by the Palace of Arts.  The palace is the last surviving building from the 1929 “North East Coast Exhibition of Industry, Science and Art”, and now houses Wylam Brewery, with a venue for eating, drinking, live music and event hire.  You can be assured the beer will be good!  A swan lay in her nest, close to the lakeside path but hidden between the rushes, with her partner on sentry duty close by.

An attractive bandstand stood pride of place, surrounded by trees full of blossom.  Resisting the temptation to grab a coffee from the little artisan coffee van parked nearby, we swept back under the central motorway.  On our way towards the park gates we passed a skatepark, highly decorated with varying standards of graffiti.  It sat empty, save for a couple sitting in deep conversation on a quarter pipe.

I love the architecture of the old Newcastle University buildings and the smooth paved pathways. It is a pleasure to travel through such an establishment, as well kept as it is.  Beyond St Thomas’ Church and the Civic Centre, with its seahorses looking out from the top of the tower, we crossed St Mary’s Place heading for Northumbria University.  

The buildings in and around Northumbria University are a mix of architecture from Victorian, seventies and modern, but all blending together nicely.  The area is very pedestrian friendly and a lot of money appears to have been spent on paving and street furniture.  Add in the trendy bars and coffee outlets and it all feels very cultured and sophisticated.  Not quite how I remember my university days.

A modern bridge took us back over the central motorway towards Shieldfield, now a popular area for student digs.  Leaving the campus area behind we dropped down to the Biscuit Factory.  

The Biscuit Factory is a contemporary art gallery, housing a cafe and a modern restaurant.  It has been a popular place for a long time.  

Behind the biscuit factory is the fantastic Ernest Cafe/Bar.  Brightly coloured brickwork and planters filled with Yuccas and bamboo create a  lively outside space, all overlooked by a huge Darth Vader serving wine (Maybe from the Bar Wars series…sorry).

Following Stepney Road to the left of Ernest, and passing Ernies Deli Takeaway, we dived in left before the railway bridge to take a footpath down to the Ouseburn.  Dropping under the sweeping arches of three huge bridges we descended onto cobbles.  Beyond the rail and road in the sky above us, we took our own little footbridge over the Ouseburn, and ascended past the small Ouseburn Farm, a visitor attraction providing the opportunity to see farm animals within the city.  

The Cluny music venue and bar stood ahead of us.  I have seen many bands from within its walls….some good, some bad.  My favourite would have to have been “Eighties Matchbox B-Line Disaster”…no longer on the scene but I loved their “psycho-billy” style.  Check them out!

The Ouseburn has been an area that I have visited many times over the years.  Often to sample the music and bars, and latterley with my kids at Seven Stories, a museum and visitors centre dedicated to children’s literature.  Now, of course, I was here to enjoy the surroundings via the medium of exercise, as we followed the Riverside Walk towards the mouth of the burn.

The Ouseburn is still a changing face.  Modern apartments are being built and trendy cafes have sprung up along its bank, especially towards the barrage before you reach the River Tyne.  The barrage enables boats to pass in and out of the Ouseburn via two lock gates, which close when a boat enters, enabling the water levels to equalise, before the gates reopen for the vessel to continue on its way. 

The Tyne Bar sits alongside the barrage at the mouth of the Ouseburn.  With plenty of outdoor seating it would often be busy with punters indoor and out…more likely out these days, of course.

We left the Ouseburn and took the Hadrian’s Wall path along the Quayside.  The stretch before us would have seen shipping, warehouses and cargoes aplenty in the not too distant past, but today it is a clean and fashionable place to be.  Stylish apartment blocks and office buildings have replaced the heavy industry.  Now bars and coffee vendors supply punters sat looking out over the water to those seven bridges and the buildings of the far bank, both new and regenerated.  

Of the sectors which have re-energised this city after the collapse of ship building and coal mining, it is the tourism industry which paints the prettiest picture, backed by investment in the region’s culture and heritage. This was aptly demonstrated by folks taking pictures on the Millenium Eye bridge.  The bridge which elegantly took us back to where we started.

Enjoy running Newcastle…there is something to see with every stride.

Start / Finish : Millennium Bridge (South Side), Gateshead, NE8 3BA (Parking at the same location)

Categories
Running Tarmac Running

Jesmond Dene & Heaton Park Run

Distance : 5.21 Miles / 8.34 Kms

Terrain : Tarmac = 4.11 Miles / 6.61 Kms; Trail = 1.1 Miles / 1.77 Kms

Difficulty : Easy

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/54224508

Jesmond-Dene-Heaton-Park-GPXDownload
Jesmond-Dene-Heaton-Park-FITDownload

Well it can’t be sunny every day. Finally the spell of fabulous sunny weather has broken and we have some rain.  I don’t mind though.  It keeps life interesting to have different conditions to run and ride in.  I try to abide by the “no such thing as the wrong conditions, just the wrong clothing” adage.  And I have to try and use all my kit or Zoe will wonder why I have it!

This was another run taking in urban flora and fauna.  Jesmond Dene and Heaton Park is a popular area of Newcastle, as there is much to do and see for everyone.

Within Jesmond Dene is Millfield House with its cafe and toilets and an adjacent visitors centre with conference rooms. Outside is a pets corner, a picnic area, a number of playgrounds and even a small boating lake at Paddy Freemans Park.  Open-air theatrical performances take place in Jesmond Dene through the Summer months, but remember to book.

The fabulous Armstrong Bridge straddles the dene towards its Southern end and Heaton Park is not much further down the burn, with its pretty Victorian pavilion and terrace, dating to 1880.  The pavilion is home to an Italian restaurant, and is a nice spot to sit and enjoy the park with a drink and a bite to eat.  Two play areas provide entertainment for the younger generation.

Both the dene and park contain various historic ruins, scattered amongst the trees and bushes, all linked by a network of footpaths. There is also plenty of open green space to exercise or just lie in the sun…if you are fortunate enough with the weather.

Of course, we can’t forget the pretty Ouseburn, without which we wouldn’t have much of the above.  The burn flows quietly and unobtrusively in many areas, trickling over the occasional small weir…before rushing and bubbling through rapids and over waterfalls in others.  No gushing torrents of white water were to be seen when I visited.  

It is all quite reminiscent of the National Trust estate at Cragside, and for good reason.  The same 19th century industrialist, Lord Armstrong, had strong links to the dene, and this can be seen in the landscape from both an industrial and botanical perspective.  The similarities will be obvious to those who have visited both locations.

I parked in a car park on the lane leading to Millfield House and the visitors centre and jogged along to the start outside of the buildings.  Being damp with on and off showers, it was quiet.  Only dog walkers to be seen, fulfilling their duties to their four legged friends in all conditions.

I set off, dancing around the puddles in an effort to keep my feet dry, and trying to avoid the drips from the trees above me.  To be honest, as soon as I had run 100 metres from the visitors centre the road surface was puddle free and the going was easy.  The route took me upstream following the burn via the Red Walk, under and over pretty stone footbridges, and around the edge of a small grassy park, overlooked by a large brick shelter.

Just behind the shelter the path crossed a small footbridge back over the burn in front of a small waterfall, close to the ruins of a watermill.  The waterfall is the largest alteration to the burn and is Lord Armstrong’s creation, having had the bed of the burn blasted out below it and built up above it.  Careful crossing the bridge…it has low parapets and the promise of an early bath (at best) for the unwary or unlucky.  It is a great place to admire though.

Onwards along the burnside path, and I couldn’t help but take a small detour to run out and back through a “wee” stone tunnel on my right…just for the hell of it.

On reaching the bridge for Castles Farm Road, I scaled a short flight of steps on the right hand bank, before following the path through another “wee” pedestrian tunnel within the bridge.  Maybe watch your head here if such structures challenge you vertically.

The footpath brought me out on Freeman Road.  Doubling back towards the Freeman Hospital, within 300 metres I crossed the road at a roundabout and ducked into the park, at the entrance on the corner.  A tarmac path took me around the edge of football and rugby pitches on my way to Paddy Freeman’s Park.  The park was originally the farm and mill of Patrick (Paddy) Freeman in 1795 and generations of his family farmed the land.  It was so named in 1860.  Not many people have a hospital named after them either, so that’s a canny tribute to Paddy.


You will find a playground, cafe (open in Summer), and the boating lake mentioned earlier, in Paddy Freeman’s Park. 

From this higher ground it was time to rejoin paths descending into the dene, now heading downstream.  Remember to take the path back into the dene just before you reach the playground of Paddy Freeman’s Park.  Junctions now presented themselves with such regularity that it could be easy to take a wrong turn, but as long as you are heading downstream on tarmac paths and not dropping all the way back to the valley bottom you should be fine.  Just as I was concerned that I was losing too much height, a long flight of steps to my left took me back up to the path that would bring me through gates onto the Armstrong Bridge.

The Armstrong Bridge is a fine iron structure.  No longer carrying vehicular traffic, it holds a market of foods and arts and crafts on Sunday mornings, providing great views over the dene to stall holders and shoppers alike.  I passed over the bridge, admiring the spire of Trinity Church in the background, before dropping down steps to my left.  Heading down Benton Bank, I swept round below the roadbridge and joined a footpath leading towards Heaton Park. 

The path is softer underfoot here, but easily manageable in road running shoes, and this section of trail is short.  Having passed alongside the burn, I took the path heading directly toward the towering Vale House, an 80 metre tall, 28 floor residential tower block.  Up until the building of Hadrian’s Tower in 2020, Vale House had been the tallest structure in Newcastle since its construction in 1968.  The route gave me a fantastic sense of its lofty height as I passed in very close proximity below.  I had wanted to take a photo here, but the surrounding foliage prevented it. 

A little further on, however, was a spot that made up for my disappointment.  A local resident has created the wonderful “St Christopher’s Lookout” on the far bank…a playful garden hideaway perched on a rock ledge above the Ouseburn, and decorated with allsorts of imaginative object d’art.  That must be a treat to visit!

Heading for the Southern limits of the vale, the path begins an ascent towards its exit through gates onto Stratford Grove West in Heaton.  Thankfully, much of the steep hill was avoided as I cut off on a left-hand path around the bank above the burn, watching as it disappeared to flow below the urban landscape on its quest to meet the River Tyne.  

Dropping onto the leafy Ouseburn Road, I struggled to continue running past all the curio which presented itself now on my left. Obviously, the same owners of St Christopher’s Lookout had continued the theme throughout their garden, and it was hard not to want to take it all in!  It made for a wonderful contrast to the modern architecture of the buildings on the opposite side of the road.

Now, up onto Stratford Road and heading North, I joined Heaton Park through a stone archway, just beyond the junction with Springbank Road.  An old picturesque flight of steps began my ascent to the higher realms of the park. 

It was certainly worth the effort.  The short-cropped grass was beautifully framed by daffodils and blossoming trees.  I now know why this is such an inviting space.

Jogging along the winding road through the park whilst avoiding the blades of the council mowers, I paused at the pavilion to have a look at the old canopy and brickwork.  Once I had unsettled the restaurant punters with my camera, I realised I had probably outstayed my welcome, so I trotted off on my travels. 

Beyond Jesmond Vale Lane, I took a path with an upward trajectory to the fringes of Armstrong Park, my destination…Heaton Windmill. Although the top part and sails of the windmill are long gone, this mill from the 1700’s is worth a quick stop. It was probably built to grind corn for flour and meal for animal feed.

I Dropped back to the wide tarmac of the pedestrianised Ouseburn Road, and within 300 metres I was crossing a small decorated iron bridge over the Coast Road (A1058). 

Re-entering Jesmond Dene where I had left it at the end of the Armstrong Bridge, I descended to get a view of this great span from below.  Structures like this aren’t built anymore…it’s a shame.

All that remained was a quick jaunt back through the park to the start/finish point, and a return to the car, damp but happy.

Great manmade structures and beautiful natural spaces, this is the story of this small valley.  For many years it has been a place of inspiration and imagination, work and leisure, activity and tranquility, for many.  It’s Newcastle’s emerald jewel and such a pleasant place to run.

Start/Finish: Millfield House, Red Walk, Jesmond Dene, Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, NE7 7BQ

Categories
Running Tarmac Running

Amble & Warkworth Trail Run

Distance : 8.52 Miles / 13.7 Kms

Terrain : Tarmac = 5.5 Miles / 8.85 Kms; Trail = 3 Miles / 4.83 Kms

Difficulty : Moderate

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/55073468

Amble & Warkworth GPXDownload
Amble & Warkworth FITDownload

There is no better place to be than by the sea on a warm sunny day.  In Northumberland we are blessed with some of the most beautiful coastline in the country.  There are plenty of unspoilt beaches and cannon-spoilt castles to enjoy.  Today we visited the small fishing port of Amble and nearby Warkworth, with its own grand castle.

I say we, as I was running today with a good friend, Ed.  A far better runner than I am, he also happens to be patient enough to allow me to puff and pant at his side whilst he trots along effortlessly.  Combine my inferior pace with regular stops for photos and I knew I was pushing it a bit. I suspected my apologising at every cinematic interlude wasn’t helping either.  We made it round though….eventually!!

Amble definitely has the feel of a place on the up.  With its cosy little marina full of yachts overlooked by stylish apartments, a bustling trade around the varied small businesses within the harbour village, a number of very decent restaurants (fish featuring highly on the menu obviously), and the excellent Spurelli’s ice-cream parlour, it has a lot to offer.  A few fishing boats still operate out of the town so it is definitely an authentic place.

Anyway, we were here to run, as well as enjoy the environment, so I’ll turn my attention to the reason for our early Saturday start.  Our run started from the Beal Bank Car Park near the Coquet Yacht Club, just on the edge of Amble as you leave heading towards Warkworth.  The skies were blue from wall to wall, although there was the usual early morning nip in the air as we prepared for the off, making us question the need for long-sleeves and thermal layers.  I chose long sleeves, Ed short sleeves…one of us was wrong….

We headed out through the yacht club, following the footpath along the shoreline as it traced its way past the marina heading for Amble harbour.  I had expected the quayside to be quiet so early on a weekend morning, but market stalls had already been set out, selling a miscellanea of items, and though there were traders aplenty, the punters must still have been in bed.

Ducking behind the stalls, we passed from the quay onto the wooden pier as a coble chugged by, cutting a path across the silk blue sea on its way into the harbour.  The South pier at Amble creates a triangle jutting from the land, forming one side of the harbour entrance in the process.  It is possible, therefore, to run along one section of the pier seaward, and then to follow the other back to shore. 

Apart from the desire to be as close to the sea as possible, it is nice to be able to see places from a different perspective, and running to the furthest point of the pier gave us the opportunity to see Amble from offshore….well almost offshore.  Looking seaward, Coquet Island appeared silhouetted like a large cargo ship at anchor off the coast.

Once I’d satisfied my need for all things marine, we turned inland, running through the town.  From terraced streets to parks, high street to quiet lane, we made our way West towards the open countryside beyond.

Whilst taking a narrow footpath behind a housing estate, Ed suddenly noticed a shrew in the verge…how he saw it I’ll never know.  I guess the lurking cat gave it away.  Ed heroically swept up the shrew and gave it safe haven out of reach of the feline predator.  Either that or we quickened the shrews demise through shock, but I prefer to believe the former, and it was still alive when we left it anyway!

The next section of the run takes you along hedge-lined footpaths between fields.  Fabulous views over the coast opened up behind us as I laboured on a steady incline.  A right turn at a crossroads took us onto a tarmac lane, which continued past the enviably placed New Barns Farm with its impressive farmhouse.  Warkworth lay not far beyond…its castle acting as a beacon to aim for.

On reaching Warkworth, we made our way by field edge footpath and by lane, down towards the river Coquet.   It was at this point that I surrendered to the fact that I was overheating, so off came the long-sleeved jacket…Ed had been right!

We met the river opposite Warkworth Hermitage, a chapel and priest’s house built onto and within the sandstone cliff face of the Northern riverbank.  It was probably built as a private chapel for the First Earl of Northumberland and it was last occupied by clergy in the 1500’s.  The hermitage is only accessible by boat and trips are organised by English Heritage during summer months. The boat leaves from just below Warkworth Castle, half a mile downstream.

Paddleboarders glided silently past as we ran the path along the riverbank towards the castle.  Warkworth sits very neatly within a U-shaped bend of the River Coquet, with its Medieval Castle historically guarding any access by land.  The castle was owned by the powerful Percy Family, whose real estate investments also included Alnwick Castle, a short distance away.  Very nice too, but bear in mind that the heating bills for castles must have been eye-watering so I’m not tempted to purchase one myself.  If only!!  The Great Tower of Warkworth Castle is almost intact…they built them to last 600 years ago.

Our route passed by many interesting buildings that stand in and around the village.  The medieval bridge and gate, St Lawrence’s church, the pretty and compact centre with its pubs, cafes and shops, as well as a multitude of attractive residential properties.  All the while, the castle stands prominently on the hill at the top of Castle Street, surrounded by daffodils and looking like it is blasting its way from earth into the cosmos.

I make no excuse for including a double navigation of this stunning village on our route.  Ed and I noted that if Warkworth was located in the South, it is likely the village would be swarming with people and property prices would be stratospheric. As it happens it retains a lovely relaxed feel and you aren’t tripping over yourself for space.

At the top of Castle Street we passed in the shadow of the castle and up a flight of steps before skirting the edge of a well tendered cricket pitch. As cricket pitches come, this setting is up there with the best, and it has stiff competition, knowing many of the pitches I’ve seen.

Leaving Warkworth, we ran the final mile along the footpath squeezed between river and road on our way back to the carpark.  A heron stood patiently at the head of a small weir.  It didn’t move an inch, either concentrating on its quest for breakfast or transfixed by the majestic castle on the hill.  

One last photo before we reach the car Ed…I promise.  Next time, I’ll try to run a little more and photograph less. I’m not sure I’ll be successful…

Start/Finish – Braid Car Park, Amble Marina, Northumberland, NE61 OWU

Categories
Running Trail Running

Angel of the North Trail Run

Distance : 4.47 Miles / 7.2 Kms

Terrain : Trail = 3.67 Miles / 5.9 Kms ; Tarmac = 0.8 Miles / 1.29 Kms

Difficulty : Moderate

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/53092248

Angel of the North GPXDownload
Angel of the North FITDownload

Would you want a massive image of your body standing on a prominent hill, taller than four double decker buses end to end, and seen by 90,000 people every day? Anthony Gormley OBE does, as he used a plaster cast of his own body for the basis of the Angel of the North.  Thought to be the largest angel sculpture in the world, it has quickly become an icon for Gateshead and the North-East of England.  Built as a post-industrial totem, it is intended to represent the coal mining, steel making and shipbuilding history of the region’s past, the transition from an age of industry to an age of information, representing our future, and as a focus for our human hopes and fears.  I was certainly keen to visit it, look at it, touch it and run round it.

Parking was easy as The Angel has her own car park, which is very easily reached from the A1…I mean, you can hardly miss it.  I set off for a solo run (no canine or human company today) from the car park, heading directly for our eponymous steel figure.  The bright blue sky with it’s cotton ball clouds provided a fantastic contrast to her majestic dark form.  I took a few pics before focusing on the run ahead of me.  Only 4.5 miles…I was looking forward to this one.

Tucked away in a corner the path runs quickly out of sight into a woodland of young trees.  The ground is so dry at the moment and the path is nicely compact and level.  I weaved easily through the trees on a route that was simple to follow, before it soon broke out into a small glade with a wider path to the main road beyond.  

On reaching the road I turned left and padded down the pavement, crossing the A1 on the Bowes incline.  Ignoring the cheeky shortcut path on my immediate left after the bridge, I continued down to the proper entrance for the footpath through Longacre Wood.  Surviving, and indeed thriving, between the East Coast mainline and the A1, this small strip of woodland was once a fragment of the larger Ravensworth Estate.  It is a mix of young, middle-aged and mature trees with abundant wildlife and a carpet of bluebells and other pretty flowers at this time of year.

At the Southern tip of the wood a path leads onto a service road for the electricity sub-station I passed on my travels.  Rarely used by vehicles, the road was nice and quiet, but for a few dog walkers.  Looking up across the field to my left I could see the head and wings of the Angel watching me over the hedgerow.  

Beyond the gate at the end of the road I crossed onto the grass verge outside Long Acre Farm.  The wide verge here is well trodden alongside Lamesley Road and it is only 100 metres to the brick road bridge over the Bowes Railway Line.  I crossed the bridge and took the steps down onto the old line.

The Bowes railway was designed by George Stephenson to carry coal from the collieries of North-West Durham to the River Tyne at Jarrow.  The earliest section opened in 1826, making it one of the world’s first modern railways.  It was 15 miles long when finished in 1855 and the railway is noted for its 8 roped-worked inclines. Coal waggons were towed up 6 of the inclines, either by horses in the early days, and later by static steam engines located at the top.  Two of the inclines, however, used a counter-balancing system, whereby descending fully-loaded waggons would pull empty waggons up the incline.  To facilitate the latter, a rope would run around a return wheel at the top of the slope.  Clever thinking Mr Stephenson!

I joined the Black Fell incline and pushed on up the slope in the direction of what was Black Fell Colliery with its remaining engine room.  The gradient remains pretty much the same all the way up to Dunkirk, where I left the line.  It must have been a labour for the steam engine…it was certainly a labour for me.

Turning left at Dunkirk, the route proceeds through the farmyard and up a gravelly lane to the appropriately named Long Bank on the B1296, opposite Ravensworth Golf Club.  Halfway up the lane I paused for a moment to take in the expansive views over a field of oilseed rape to the Team Valley, Birtley and Chester-le-Street beyond.  Hopefully, the weather will also be in your favour, as you can see for many miles.  Of course, the mini hiatus gave me a chance to recover from the mammoth climb that I had just undertaken.  I was now at the top, so it was all downhill from here!  

Horse riders passed me as I crossed Long Bank.  Sitting on a horse and moving without much effort from my tired muscles suddenly seemed to be an attractive proposition.  But not having a kingdom to offer in exchange, I trotted on into a housing estate.

Skirting around the outside of the golf course I was on a downwards trajectory and it felt easier on the lungs.  To offset this relief, downhills feel the need to offer an alternative challenge to the body.  They do this by loading your calves and quads to the point that they are constantly nagging with the aching pain of fatigue.  All par for the course I guess…no pun intended.

Always watching on the horizon, but now coming closer in view, the Angel was starting to draw me in with her presence.  Maybe it was the car actually, symbolising the end of my run, but nevertheless, it is difficult not to be drawn to such a magnificent structure.  I certainly wasn’t alone as a steady stream of folk came, sat, stood, stared and departed from beneath the angel’s mighty wings.  Whether to learn, remember, be inspired, or simply enjoy the art and surroundings,  paying a visit to the Angel is a must.

The Great North Run it wasn’t, a great Northerly run it was.  Just be prepared for the Black Fell incline, but minus the tow to the top!

Start/Finish – Angel of the North Parking, Low Fell, Gateshead, NE9 7UA

Categories
Running Trail Running

Cragside

What a perfect day to start a blog and what a superb advert for Northumberland.  The trails around Cragside and Rothbury are firm underfoot, wide and expansive, and set in the most picturesque surroundings.  Towering pines and an abundance of rhododendron and other such waxy-leaved plants create avenues reminiscent of the American Pacific North-West….and you wouldn’t think it was March, with wall to wall sunshine in bright blue skies and a gentle breeze to keep me cool and push me along.

Cragside is a National Trust owned property, best known for being the first house in the world to be lit by hydro-electric power.  The estate was created by Lord William Armstrong, a philanthropic industrialist engineer and his wife, Lady Margaret, who had a love of natural sciences.

I set off from the Croziers car park, leaving Zoe, Florrie, Martha and the dogs to wander and explore the estate’s labyrinth. After a mile or so of gradual ascent on dusty trails I joined the carriage drive at the Moorside car park for an easy tarmac trot downhill to the estate exit.  Crossing the main road on Cragpit hill (A killer climb for any cyclist) I was back onto firm trail and soon dropping down to cross the Debdon Burn. 

Once through the gate beyond Primrose Cottage the real effort begins, with a long steady uphill through the trees until I reached three gates near the top of Crocky’s Heugh. 

Taking the gate on the left I passed an old wooden trailer which had a nice rustic quality, but I barely recognised the remains of an old quarry to my right, as I continued upwards onto the open heathland. 

On a good day up here you can see for many miles around….the Cheviots to the North, Simonside to the South, and the wide Coquet valley to the West.

The wide trail winds around the top of the hill, just below a triangulation point and Ship Crag before descending past a radio antenna and on to a gate beyond.

Once through the gate a short sharp climb brings you onto Addyheugh.

It is worth pausing at the crest to look at the names and dates carved into the sandstone and enjoy the precipitous views over the town of Rothbury from this long visited spot. 

The wide trail generally descends from here, and quite steeply in places, before turning sharply left to join a narrow rocky footpath, down between waxy shrubs.  This path opens onto the B6341 at the West end of Tumbleton Lake, so take care crossing the road here and join the estate path along the edge of the lake. 

The views across the lake towards Home Farm are stunning and it is worth noting that the farm is the location of the estate cafe. Running past the estate entrance, I dropped onto the carriage drive, rounding the South-East end of Tumebleton Lake.

Descending the steps on the right, I followed the weaving footpath through the tall pines to a footbridge over the Debdon Burn.

This spot provides an iconic view of Cragside House, nicely framed by a grand iron bridge in the foreground.   It is well worth taking a breather here because the final mile of your route takes you sharply uphill beyond the back of the house onto Crozier Drive

Maybe take just a moment to appreciate the towering chimney pots from the rear of the house as you pass, before you haul yourself up the steep slope ahead.  I confess that I did pause for a brief reprieve on a well positioned rock below a small cave near the top of this ramp. 

Once up onto Crozier Drive the gradient relents for a short distance as I passed a pretty tarn banked with reeds and rushes.  Just beyond the tarn it was onwards and upwards again, although thankfully on an easier incline, until reaching the children’s play area that I passed on the way out.  From here it was a short jaunt back to the carpark with a little traverse of the limestone slabs on the way…just for fun!  If you are lucky the kiosk may be open for a well earned refreshment….full fat ice cold Pepsi was just the ticket!!

Now if you are not a National Trust member, you will have to pay to visit the estate, but I can’t recommend it highly enough, and there are toilets, refreshments and plenty of car parking on site too.  On a warm sunny day it is an absolute charm and there is plenty to explore for adults and children alike.  And of course…the area is almost tailor-made for your trail shoes!! Enjoy!!

Categories
Running Trail Running

Housesteads & Sycamore Gap Trail Run

Distance : 7.18 Miles / 11.56 Kms

Terrain : Trail = 7.08 Miles / 11.39 Kms ; Tarmac = 0.1 Miles / 0.17 Kms

Difficulty : Challenging

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/52809435

Housesteads & Sycamore Gap GPXDownload
Housesteads & Sycamore Gap FITDownload

Hadrian’s Wall stands amongst some of the most scenic and rugged countryside in the UK.  For nearly 2000 years it has drawn an unwavering line across the landscape, representing the Northernmost reaches of the Roman Empire in Britain.  It was built to defend against any marauding forces from the far North of our island, and the remaining ruins of forts such as at Housesteads and Vindolanda give us a glimpse of what life would have been like back then for soldiers stationed along the wall.  But enough of the history lesson, relevant though it is.  Yes, I came to this section of the wall as it is interesting, but also because it is beautiful and challenging terrain for trail running.

This may not have been the longest or most mountainous run, but it was certainly tough.  The first half of the run took me from Steel Rigg carpark, which is located a short distance from the military road (B6318), taking the road North opposite The Sill.  Whilst I mention it, The Sill is a tourist information centre which opened in 2017, highlighting the geology of the region, especially that of the Whin Sill, a huge layer of igneous rock which conveniently provides the tall crags along which a good section of Hadrian’s Wall was built.

The path is easy to follow, either as it is well worn by walkers or because it follows farm tracks.  Over the first few miles the route undulated across fields of wary sheep standing over their newborn lambs, and vaguely interested cattle, obviously used to the passing human with attached canine.  It was a little muddy in places but nothing too clarty and Crag Lough glistened in the sunshine.  It has been quite dry recently, although the melt water from yesterday’s dusting of snow would likely have made its contribution to the conditions underfoot.

Plenty of snow remained, however, on the North-facing slopes, often framing the picturesque scenery. After approximately three miles the terrain became a little wetter and boggier underfoot, with regular muddy and marshy patches. 

Although only a few degrees above zero, the sun still managed to slowly roast the slightly overdressed runner caught under its glare, so I was very pleased to pass through a small copse of trees and enjoy its cooling shade momentarily.  At least, on leaving the trees behind, I could see a gate ahead, which signalled the route joining the wall itself and the start of the returning half of the run.  After possibly a third of a mile of further boggy ground and a short sharp grassy climb I was able to rest at, and on, the gate.  I couldn’t use it for its intended purpose, however, as it was padlocked, no doubt due to covid 19.  Tilly didn’t like the look of the stile so my oft-used skills as a crane for canine beasts came into use and I, henceforth, would be destined to be filthy-armed for the rest of the run.

I hadn’t considered just how challenging running the actual wall is.  The folks who run the length of the wall must be either super-human, or insane….or both.  Those Roman soldiers must have been pretty fit signori.  The next three and a half miles nearly had me on my knees and my lungs on the floor with its rollercoaster profile.  However, although tough on the body, the navigation is easy (follow the big brick thing) and it is well worth the effort.  Up here on a good day you can see for countless miles around in all directions. 

An explore of Housesteads fort and a quick stop to admire the iconic Sycamore Gap in passing….this route is too good to miss.  There were plenty of opportunities for me to stop and pretend to be admiring the views as I caught my breath.  In truth, I stopped so many times to take a pic that my phone ran out of battery before the end.

The car park had been half-full when I arrived, but this area is quite vast so I didn’t see people very often on my travels.  By the time I returned to the car I was spent and for once I think Tilly was quite tired too.  I was very glad to see a coffee-van in the carpark.  The Americano helped keep my wits about me on the rolling waves of the military road as I drove home.  This landscape is much easier in the car….but where is the fun in that!!

Start/Finish Location: Steel Rigg Car Park, Henshaw, Northumberland NE47 7AN